Role of a sebum-regulating complex in correcting epidermal barrier parameters in patients with acne



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Abstract

BACKGROUND: Recent studies consider acne vulgaris as a disease associated with epidermal barrier dysfunction. Restoring the epidermal barrier has been recognized as a key aspect of acne management, making the development of topical products that address both clinical manifestations of acne and barrier disruption a relevant task.

AIM: To assess the efficacy and safety of a topical formulation containing an innovative sebum-regulating complex in adolescents with mild acne.

METHODS: It was a prospective, single-center observational study conducted at the Federal State Budgetary Educational Institution of Higher Education St. Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University (Russia) from May to December 2024. The study included 30 patients (13 boys and 17 girls; mean age, 14.5 years) with mild acne whose legal guardians provided informed consent. Participants applied a cosmetic product regimen twice daily for 84 days. Four study visits were scheduled, during which investigators assessed lesion counts and measured skin hydration, sebum levels, pH, and erythema using the Multi Skin Test Center 750 device (Germany). Adverse events, quality of life, and satisfaction with topical products were also evaluated.

RESULTS: All participants completed the study as planned. Partial or complete lesion regression was recorded in all cases. The mean number of comedones, papules/pustules, and inflammatory lesions decreased by 82.9%, 86.2%, and 91.2%, respectively. Facial erythema intensity was reduced by 21%; skin hydration increased by 3.4%; sebum levels decreased by 37.7%; and skin pH shifted 12.6% toward acidity. Quality of life improved by 51.7% according to the CDLQI questionnaire. No adverse reactions to the studied topical products were reported. Overall, 97% (29/30) of participants rated their experience as excellent.

CONCLUSION: A cosmetic product containing a sebum-regulating complex can be recommended as adjunctive or standalone skincare for adolescents with mild acne. This formulation is not only effective and safe for managing acne lesions but also improves epidermal barrier function.

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About the authors

Denis V. Zaslavsky

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University

Author for correspondence.
Email: venerology@gmail.com
ORCID iD: 0000-0001-5936-6232
SPIN-code: 5832-9510

MD, Dr. Sci. (Medicine), Professor

Russian Federation, 2 Litovskay st, Saint Peterburg, 194100

Alexey V. Taganov

Pierre Wolkenstein Skin Diseases Clinic

Email: matis87177@yandex.ru
ORCID iD: 0000-0001-5056-374X
SPIN-code: 1191-8991

MD, Dr. Sci. (Medicine)

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Daria V. Kozlova

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University; Granov Russian Research Center of Radiology and Surgical Technologies

Email: dashauchenaya@yandex.ru
ORCID iD: 0000-0002-6942-2880
SPIN-code: 3783-8565

MD

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg; Saint Petersburg

Svetlana Yu. Kulikova

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University

Email: svet22_07@mail.ru
ORCID iD: 0009-0002-5987-8099
SPIN-code: 9685-5678

MD

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Mikhail G. Khvedelidze

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University

Email: sussll@yandex.ru
ORCID iD: 0000-0002-2017-090X
SPIN-code: 8553-8384

MD, Cand. Sci. (Medicine)

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Ekaterina A. Lyamina

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University

Email: katerina_lyamina00@mail.ru
ORCID iD: 0009-0005-1932-3373
SPIN-code: 4777-1850

MD

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Gulay A. Manafova

Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University

Email: gul-manafova2017@yandex.ru
ORCID iD: 0009-0005-9064-4022
SPIN-code: 6544-1989
Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Kirill D. Dyatlov

North-Western State Medical University named after I.I. Mechnikov

Email: thorimsson@yandex.ru
ORCID iD: 0009-0008-8960-1449
Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

Nikolay N. Aletskiy-Milyutin

Joint-Stock Company Wertex

Email: aletskiy.nn@gmail.com
ORCID iD: 0009-0001-1031-720X
SPIN-code: 7831-6314

MD

Russian Federation, Saint Petersburg

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2. Fig. 1. Patient S. with a diagnosis of “Vulgar acne” on visit 1 before the start of using the products of the line with an innovative seborrheic complex (a) and after 3 months of using the complex of products (visit 4): there is resolving of comedones and inflammatory elements of rash and reducing of skin oiliness visualized (b).

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3. Fig. 2. Patient K. diagnosed with acne vulgaris: on visit 1, before the start of using the products of the line with the innovative seborrheic complex a large number of closed comedos, pustules and inflammatory elements are noted on the face (a); after 3 months of participating in the study (visit 4) partial resolution of the rash is noted.

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СМИ зарегистрировано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи, информационных технологий и массовых коммуникаций (Роскомнадзор).
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